What’s the best way to paint over a wall that wallpaper has been removed from?
Friday, January 1st, 2010 at
12:28 pm
I recently removed the wallpaper from my kitchen and wanted to paint. I have sanded it all smooth, but the paint won’t stick anywhere there was a seam in the wallpaper. Am I going to have to paint with Kilz first or will Kilz even stick?
Filed under: Wall Covering
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UGH! I feel your pain. We have gone through the same process in just about every room of our house.
What you want to do is:
1. Sand some more. Just go nuts with the sandpaper until the wall is as smooth as a baby’s butt.
2. Get some wallpaper glue remover from your local hardware or paint store. get that glue out of there!
3. Prime it. At least twice!
Good luck!
Make sure you get all the glue off. To do this, use a product called DIF.
Then, yes, you need to prime the wall… prime it twice.
I’d definitely do the Kilz 1st test it on the section where the seam was 1st before you jump on doing the whole room and then find out. If the Kilz doesn’t work as your local hardware store in the paint section they should definitely know.
you have to wash the walls with TSP- trisodiumphosphate first.
Use your wallpaper scrapper with the solution on the walls to get all residue off and you should be fine.
You will definitely need to use some kind of primer before you paint. Yes Kilz will work or even any other household primer. This will help the paint bond better.
Get some wallpaper glue and try and see if this will help.If it does.Then go ahead and paint your wall.
get all the glue odd using DIF then paint over the wall double coated
maybe you should paint white first a heavy coat. then a heavy coat of the color you want.
You can texture and paint over wall paper but there are several things to consider. First, is the paper adhering well to the wall? Second, does the paper have a texture? Third, is the paper dark in color? These issues will be addressed throughout this response.
If there are any loose sections or bubbles in the paper, they will have to be glued. The best way to do this is to use Elmer’s Glue and a syringe so the paper does not have to be pulled. If there are many areas that are loose, I would suggest removing it.
Usually, if the paper is removed, some of the drywall paper will come off too. These areas will have to be floated with joint compound, sanded, or washed, and primed with a sealer, like Kilz, before texture is applied.
Use the premixed compound and be sure to stir it up to make it smooth and workable. I prefer washing drywall floating in an occupied home because of the dust. Any large sponge and a bucket of water will do. You simply rub the area with the wet, almost dripping wet, sponge until the compound softens. With a little practice, you can smooth the compound very easily. Depending on the wall damage, you may have to apply more than one coat of compound.
There are commercial paper removers available at many rental stores that include a roller with pins on it to puncture the paper. You simply roll this all over the wall to fill the paper with holes. The system also includes an "iron" attached to a steam generator to inject steam behind the paper. As the steam is injected, the glue softens so the paper can be scraped off with a 3 or 4" putty knife. Care must be taken to avoid damaging the drywall. Ask the rental company for help before you begin.
If the paper is secure and small repairs are done, the first step is to float out the wallpaper seams with joint compound. You will have to sand or wash the compound after drying to give you a smooth wall. (See above for washing procedure) If the paper has a texture to it, you may have to float the whole wall. After you have the wall smooth, use a penetrating sealer, such as oil based Kilz, over the whole wall. If the paper is dark, you may have to apply 2 coats of sealer.
You are then ready to texture and paint. The best say to apply texture is to blow it on with a hopper and air compressor. This will give you the best uniform texture. The roll-on textures are very difficult to make uniform. Be sure to mask and cover everything you don’t want to texture.
After drying, you are ready to paint. Any latex paint will do and many homeowners use an "eggshell" finish because it is easier to keep clean. The better paints will cost more but they will cover better and last longer.
If you removed wallpaper, there are products on the market, especially at stores like Lowes and Home Depot, that should be applied to the wall before painting. I can’t remember what they’re called, but the people at either store can recommend the right product. Then you really should paint with Kilz before the final coat of paint.
You’ve got to start with an absolutely clean base. I washed my walls with TSP, then painted on a coat of Kilz. I had very old wallpaper to remove. It came off easily but left a thick coat of paste. Hope this helps.
First you must wash the walls done after you have sanded with a product like Dip as Home Depot. If you have damaged the back of the wallboard you will need to tape and patch before priming. The primer is necessary. Now the walls will need 2 coats of good paint. Now it should look like new.
use john matt paint by johnsons it lets plaster coated walls breath
Kilz covers up stands. and yes can be used as a primer before painting. a primer can be used also before painting and may be cheaper to use then Kilz.
Make sure all of the wallpaper has been removed. Then you will need some medium to fine grain sand paper to sand off the remaining glue that did not come off with the paper. An electric sander works really great but don’t use too much pressure or you may end up with small divots in your wall. After getting the glue off, be sure to remove residual sanding dust with a clean and dry rag and then prepare you walls with a good wall primer (can be purchased at any reliable hardware or paint store). If you’re unsure as to which product you will need, be sure to speak to a knowledgeable person that works strictly in the paint section. They should be able to locate the right product for you. After the primer has been applied and allowed to dry, you can paint away to your hearts delight. Good luck and let me know the outcome of your remodeling.
Over the years where the wallpaper seams were they have collected dirt,grease, and cooking smoke. These areas are saturated into the drywall. Kilz should work well if you have sanded and prepped the walls. Paint a small area (the seam areas) and allow a couple of days and check results. If this fails you will need a degreasing agent from your paint store.
When ever I have stripped wallpaper, I always prime the wall with a oil based primer to seal out any water stains. Water based, even kilz water base, will let the stains bleed though. As far as the paint not sticking on the seams, I would use the old tried and true, and stinky oil based kilz. The priming will also ensure a constant finish when the finish coat is applied. It may not be what you want to hear, but it won,t be as frustrating as having to start over again later.
Sounds crazy but use white vinegar mixed half and half with very hot water. Apply with "scrubby sponge", you know what I mean. This will remove old glue, which is what is causing your problem. Kilz is good idea any time you are painting old wall but may not be essential if wall appears in very good condition.
wash the area with tsp. then prime it with an oil primer. it should adhere the paint to the wall then.
use primer paint
You really need to get rid of the glue residue… a little water and some and a lot of elbow work… after it’s cleaned out then use a good primer and it should work out fine
Best of Luck!